Such a Great Weekend
It's true, this past weekend was incredibly good.
This past week the WUJS people still in Arad had a tiyul in the North. While they were trekking across rocks and waterfalls I was sitting (much as I am now) at work doing odd jobs between checking my mail and googling. One of my guiltiest new pleasures (especially guilty at work) is taking all the quizzes at
ynr.blogthings.com, mostly because I agree with all their answers for me (I am a great girlfriend, I'm not a challenge, I will be a modern bride). Brian would call me at night to tell me about the stars he was looking at (he's learned well from my real boyfriend Yohoshua) and the latest gossip from the trip. Poor Daniela seemed to have had an awful time, but trooper that she is she just kept going past the sprained ankle, lost glasses, and having to wear prescription sunglasses at night.
So everyone came back on Thursday evening, and Brian, Erin, and Daniela came straight to Jerusalem. I took Brian over to our local falefel stands (there's two about 20 feet from each other owned by cousins) for dinner and then he slept while I did his laundry (I knew the quiz was right!). Friday we went to Ben Yehuda to get him a new kipah (Jewish head covering) at the Kipah Man's. It's this tiny little closet of a store and because the owner is so friendly and has such a nice schtick you feel good buying your kipahs there over anyplace else. The Kipah Man even recommended lunch over at Pinati's, which was an incredible find. We shared a plate of hummus with meat and were proud to be off the tourist-beaten-path. Full, we went to a park opposite the US Consulate and Brian took a nap while I talked with Yohoshua on the phone and relaxed in one of the few green spots in Jerusalem.
During the afternoon, Brian checked his e-mail and found he's been invited to his friend Madoka's wedding in Japan. He asked me along as a date. My only previous experience with Japan is a Sesame Street special in which Big Bird says "Ohio" to everyone in greeting, a few scenes from "Around the World in 80 Days," Gilbert and Sullivan's "The Mikado," and the sushi rolls I bought from the library at OSU. So, unless I'm greeted by a group of Englishmen holding up the corners of their eyes singing "we are the gentlemen of Japan..." and a large puppet and Passepartout perform circus acts while chanting my universities alma mater, I think I'm in for a surprise. Genuinly, I'm thrilled. I think it will be a full body culture shock and I'm really excited about it. I wouldn't want to go with anyone else, not just because hanging out with Brian is a lot of fun, but he's so passionate about Japan and I think he wants to show me around as much as I want to experience everything. Bonuses also include the fact that I will be meeting Madoka, one of Brian's oldest friends; I will also be traveling with Vo, another friend of Brian's who is really funny; and I may meet Brian's parents and sister (which begs the question "What am I going to wear?" And where will I buy it in Israel?) Other surprise: my parents are very supportive and excited for me to go.
That night we went out to a little alley which has a few very nice looking restaurants and ended up at a Japanese restaurant. Better to get the chop-stick lessons in now, and I'm going to need a lot of them. On Saturday Brian and I went to the Israel Museum, because he's only ever been to the gift shop before. He got the obligatory picture in front of The Shrine of the Book and we posed together in the scultpure garden on the Ahava (Love) sculpture. Then we went in and found that there were a bunch of great temporary exhibits, 3 of them relating to Japan. It can't be a coincidence. One exhibit was Far and Away: The Fantasy of Japan in Israeli Art, which wasn't very exciting beyond an old "Visit Palestine" poster redone in a Japanese style, but it did cause me to question the Western ideas of Japan in general, and how Israel, already an dealing with it's own stereotypes of vast deserts and tents, dreams of an even more Oriental world. Then there was the scandalous Rising SUn Melting Moon: Contemporary Art in Japan which included spoofs of famous masterpieces depicting Japanese culture and not a few nudes. The most exciting was an exhibit called All That's Not Me by a Japanese photographer, Kimiko Yoshida. She used artifcats from all around the museum to create a series of 30 "brides" in which she wore the headdresses and veils from over the past 2,000 years and at least 15 countries while she was painted Japanese-style to match the background of the photographs, either white, gold, red, or black. It was such a vibrant way to see the artifacts.
We left the museum and asked a taxi driver to take us someplace open on Shabbat with good food. First there was the haggling, and I think the driver thought he won when we agreed to a decent price but he took us to East Jerusalem (little did he know I live there and it was incredibly convenient). He took us to Philadelphia, which is a restaurant in all my guide books, Jimmy Carter's favorite in Israel, but I could never find it. The food was good, Brian and I split a mixed grill and a few salads (of course hummus). When it came time for dessert Brian wanted to see a menu, but the waiter went right over to a recently vacated table, picked up the leftover baklava, went to the kitchen (which I could see into) added a few more baklava to the plate, and served it to us. When in Palestine.... we ate it.
Brian was supposed to leave Saturday night, but we had fun and fell asleep, and then it seemed silly to leave. So Sunday (I don't work on Sundays) we went to the Old City. We entered through Damascus Gate into the Muslim Quarter (I've only done that once before) and we walked straight to the Via Delarosa to Abu Shukri's, one of the best hummus places supposedly in all Israel. We split the usual, including incredible foul (fava beans I think) and then continued down the road straight to the Kotel and Jewish Quarter, but not before passing Muslim Barbies with headcoverings and martyr posters. Leaving the Old City we walked towards a Russian church on the hillside and ended up instead at Schindler's grave. I'd seen it once before, at the end of Schindler's List, and had thought it was solitary on a big green hill, but there must have been trick photography because it was amongst a lot of other graves in a pretty decrepid looking cemetary, we could only find it because it was the only grave with stones on it (a Jewish tradition). We then went to my favorite museum, the Museum on the Seam dedicated to coexistence and dialogue. I really get a lot out of being there, and I was hoping Brian would too. Not that he would have to agree with my politics, but that we could discuss certain exhibits and their impact on us. He really didn't like it, and didn't seem to get anything out of it the way I do. So we argued, not a bad thing to argue about. I was actually a bit shocked to realize he's so right-wing (he's not a Netenyahu, but definitly makes me look crazy leftist). I suppose it's so personal to me because the museum doesn't reflect my politics as much as it reflects my beliefs, my future career, what I do in my free time, and some very special memories.
Brian left Sunday night and I went with my flat-mates and a hoarde of other WUJSers to the Jerusalem Circus. My roommate Rachel is interning there and it was a real pleasure to do something so fun and support her at the same time. The circus, so you can picture it, isn't under a roundtop but on a stage. It's made up entirely of Jewish and Arab kids under 18 who work together to perfect their "circus arts." I was as impressed with their ability (some incredible trapeze work and scarf climbing) as I was with their confidence (One juggler kept going after dropping his balls, a little girl just couldn't quite get her balancing act to work). We had a good late dinner at an Itlaian restaurant and now it's back to work and all the fun it entails until the next weekend.
After the last post, it may seem a bit crass, but things are going really well in my life. I think because we're in Jerusalem, and not Arad, the distance between us girls and the rest of WUJS and the trauma there has really made a difference. Emily and I discussed it a bit and we had really similar feelings about being uncomfortable in our room. Being in Jerusalem perhaps we've sidestepped some of the issues we'd otherwise have to deal with. I think other WUJS people still in Arad are feeling that way too, and many are searching for escapes. Right now everyone is on the 4 day tiyul (trip) a hike in the North. Weakling that I am, I've skipped it in favor of typing up office papers, but I'm there in spirit (everyone's going swimming in the Kinneret, I dare them not to think of me).
Office stuff is getting a bit better. If the actual work isn't all that interesting, at least the perks are great. Last week they had a screening of Paradise Now and the Israeli producer answered (long-windedly) questions about the aims of the film. I really recommend the film. I think it doesn't play to stereotypes, has an overall positive, peaceful message, and really challenges every viewer, no matter their political or religious identity. The first time I saw it was with Hanna and a few friends at the Jerusalem Cinemateque with an audience of half Arabs and half Jews. The emotional moments were almost too much and I left with so many questions and ideas. Watching it with Seeds of Peace, with young Arab and Jewish leaders who've dedicated themselves towards peace, was so much more reassuring. GO SEE IT, especially if it's "not your kind of movie" or you think it's anti-Israeli.
This past weekend I had most of my good friends over to celebrate my birthday, but really just to spend time together. Brian, Petr, Evan, Tal, Anna, and Naomi joined Emily, Daniela, Erin, and I for a really great time. While waiting for them to get to our apartment, I got a call from Liat and went to meet her in the City Center. Liat was a good friend on EIE and we hadn't seen each other in 5 years, though we'd been on-and-off in contact. She's the kind of free-spirit that isn't at all flaky, a girl who's dreadlocked but not dirty. I like her lots. After I dropped her off to meet up with her group, I ran over to the new Arad arrivals. We all went to one street bar with hooka (nargila) and then the boys and Emily, Daniela, and I went to a much nicer place called Prague, were I got positively tipsy (as if being with Brian didn't already have me over the edge).
The rest of the weekend was very fun and relaxed; went to Mahene Yehuda as a large group for Shabbat shopping (I ran into Gabi, a girl I volunteered with 3 summers ago in Sfat, she's married now!), then the boys and I got some Sahleb (creamy Turkish drink, their first time), went to a playground (I think I was there 5 years ago), and got a drink. On Saturday we slept in and went to the Ambassador Hotel (Palestinian, just down the street), and got 7 Arabic salads for 10 dollars and each got a Taybe (Palestinian beer). Extremely good times. Of course it was good to be with everyone, but especially Brian. After our time together in Arad for Alex, I feel like what was a fun relationship has a much more emotional connection now. I feel so completely comfortable and happy with him. He even likes it when I criticize his smoking (he only does it occasionally, but that's still too often) and I don't mind too much when he makes me blush.
The other thing on my mind: The Future. Grad school or Israel? With Israel, I need to look for a job, an apartment, and do I even want to be here? Grad school is slightly more frightening. So far I've gotten into 4 programs (Columbia's Teachers College, American's Education, GW's Education, and School of International Training), waitlisted at 1 (GW's Elliot School, which is good because I don't think it would be a good fit for me), and am waiting to hear back from 3 more (American's dual degree, Notre Dame, Brandeis). If I get into the last 3 it's going to be a really hard decision. There's still the basic question, besides the dual degree option, of whether I'm going to approach this from an MA in education, with a focus on peace education, or if I'll get an MA in conflict resolution and not focus on teaching at all but perhaps become a facilitator or something else. I'm trying to enjoy the fact that I have options, but I've always been such a terrible decision maker. Especially after OSU, I want to do this for myself and for the right reasons.
Advice welcome, though I don't promise to follow it
Alex
Alexander deBeer died the evening of March 6. I'm not going to write very much about Alex. Everytime I try to it comes out badly. Having talked to a lot of people afterwards I feel very lucky to have been his neighbor, to have gotten the chance to have seen him almost everyday, and at his best. I feel especially conflicted about not having seen him the last three weeks, wishing that if I'd been there I could have done something, thankful that I wasn't so that I remember him as the sweet, gentle, optimistic man he was. The days I spent back in Arad were a rollercoaster; the loss of Alex came in waves and the sense of community and love between all of us was sometimes enough to cope. All of us had little pieces, our experiences with Alex, that we used to try to understand what happened, to create a complete puzzle. I'm content now to have my own memories, to not wonder. You can visit a site his family created for him at AlexanderdeBeer.com. Though you won't hear his funny slow-paced voice or eat his delicious pasta or disgusting liqurice powder, smell him after his workouts, or touch his baby-soft hair, you will get a sense of his sweetness and beauty, I hope.
Seeds Stories Songs and Soup
I find myself with free time at work again. Reem, the woman I assist, says that after the 15th things with the Maine camp should be settled and she'll actually have stuff for me to do. The whole problem is Hamas (I know, I can't blame Hamas for everything, but when it comes to terrorism and my non-existant work-load, I can), since they've taken over the Palestinian government the Palestinian funding and support for Seeds of Peace has been completely cut off. The schools that used to send their best and brightest students are now not allowed to participate and so Seeds has to turn to private schools and others that can't be threatened by the government. This compromises that character of the Palestinian Seed participants, because where there used to be children from many backgrounds, economic and social, there is now a much smaller and more elite pool. There is also, I've heard, the chance that Hamas members will be sending their kids (the program includes a lot of leadership training and rare opportunities for travel outside of the Palestinian Territories), arguably that's the sort of kids that SOP should be reaching, but if they come in as saboteurs or something along those lines it could become very difficult.
Last night was really fantastic, and I really appreciate the opportunities I'm going to have being a part of SOP and living in Jerusalem. First, let me say that I spent the whole day shopping with Emily and I actually found Israeli clothes that fit me and didn't have sparkles/ crocheted flowers/ inappropriate English on them, and all pretty cheap. This alone was miraculous and a near religious experience. At 4:30 Emily and I put on the cutest of our new clothes and headed over to Seeds of Peace to help with last night's program.
The first Sunday of every month SOP hosts a "Seeds Cafe" where they invite adults (educators, parents of Seeds, members of other NGOs) to participate in a program that reflects a theme of coexistence. When we got there we got FREE SOP sweatshirts and bracelets and began welcoming the guests and talk to a few Seeds. I spoke with Meirav, an Israeli girl, and Mohammad, an Arab-Israeli boy. Mohammad (he asked how old I was, when I said I was turning 22 on Saturday he thought I was lying, turns out that he's 18) We then got to sit in on the program, two female storytellers, an Israeli and a Palestinian, talking about the importance of storytelling as well as sharing a few of their favorites. They each did one story in English, then the Palestinian told a story in Arabic and the Israeli told the same story, with variations, in Hebrew. They then asked the audience for stories, and one Muslim women talked about the importance of folk song as a story in Palestinian culture and then began to sing for us. Half the crowd knew the song as were singing along and everyone was clapping. A professor from Hebrew University then talked about his little life philosophy and then a professor from Al-Quds University (Arabic for Jerusalem, located in East Jerusalem) told his. It's exactly what I always wanted for the Muslim-Jewish Dialogue Club at OSU and it was truly thrilling to be a part of.
After we helped clean up, Emily, Daniela (she came with one of the women from her organization, Jerusalem Stories), and I sat and listened to the jazz trio (what is the word for that?) that were playing in the corner. One of the guys, the drummer, had the hair that Daniela loves and eyes that Emily really appreciates, and of course, I just enjoyed the music. So I went up to the bass player and asked where they usually played, he told us Marakia, that they are there all the time and we should drop in tonight. But we had a date with Ami, who was playing at Sugar Hill in the City Center. So off to Sugar Hill we went, the tiniest, teeniest, little bar I've ever seen. The place was packed with Ami's friends (there were about 20 of us, but believe me it was standing room only) and we listened to him play guitar and sing for about two hours. It was just so nice to see Ami doing what he loves to do, with his friends around him. Around 11 I became ravenous and we headed out to find Marakia. It turns out to be another hole-in-the-wall (though slightly bigger) soup and jazz place (soup in Hebrew is marak, so we should have guessed), really excellent. I got mint and pepper soup and we listened to the group from earlier (they all waved when we came in) and just hung out at a very different place.
By far my most complete and favorite night of Jerusalem
